Fall Jewelry Showcase at Pratt Institute

A couple of weeks ago I attended an evening lecture and jewelry showcase at Pratt Institute — two exciting and thought-provoking events! The first was a talk and book signing with Damian Skinner, the editor of Contemporary Jewelry in Perspective, a newly released book in collaboration with the Art Jewelry Forum. His information about contemporary jewelry along with the discussion that followed with the audience was fascinating. It is a solid book with a lot of topics to consider. Keep an eye out for my review of it in the coming months!

Contemp Jewelry signed insta copyThe second part of the evening was a jewelry showcase that featured work created by faculty, alumni, and current students. It was wonderful to see these pieces all exhibited together. A level (dis)playing field of sorts! Here were some of my favorites:

Lauren Curry, class of 2014, “My 1st Time Using Chopsticks”, 2013. Brass, purple heart wood, garnets, emeralds, crushed chicken bones.

Lauren Curry chopsticks insta copy

You might remember Lauren’s name from my previous post about the Pratt Junior Jewelry Exhibition — she was the winner of the Tiffany & Co Foundation Jewelry Design Scholarship! Although these chopsticks are more art object than jewelry, I loved them for a number of reasons. It’s hard to tell their scale from the photo but these are actually very oversized chopsticks, which adds to the memory of everyone’s first time with chopsticks. Didn’t they feel enormous and gawky in your hand? Lauren also set a garnet and emerald at the top ends of the sticks, which made them feel very regal and important. I couldn’t help but love that they are made of purple heart wood. Makes it sound like she was going into first battle with a plate full of food, armed only with these courageous chopsticks! And last but not least is the metal chicken head that they rest on. A casualty of the food war?

William Yang, class of 2014, “Black Oyster Necklace”, 2013. Sterling silver, brass, fossilized oyster, green amethyst, champagne quartz, smokey quartz, peridot, black pearl, coffee grounds.

William Yang oyster necklace insta copy

I love how futuristic this necklace is! I can just imagine some distant time when we all wear necklaces like these as a source of power. Energy is drawn from the “fossil fuel” of the oyster shell in the center of the necklace, and using gemstone buttons and cogs it is filtered in pathways upwards. This necklace would have fit in perfectly with the recent LOOT exhibit at MAD!

Alexia Cohen, technician and faculty, “Wrist Expansion 17”, 2007. Gold-plated brass frame, white elastic cord.

Alexia Cohen bracelet insta copy

Alexia actually had a different version of this bracelet on display, with rhodium-plated brass and black elastic cord, but I loved this lighter gold version that she was wearing so much that I took a photo of it instead. She let me try it on and it was lighter and softer than you might imagine. Fantastically flexible and comfy. It made me feel a bit like a superhero (perhaps it’s all that webbing?) because of the concept that I could extend the size of my wrist into a huge gold outline. For when I need to be extra powerful!

Shuoyuan Bai, class of 2014, “Untitled Necklace”, 2013. Copper, transparent enamel, silver leaf.

Ryan Bai necklace insta copy

Yet another piece that totally could have been at LOOT! I love how each round on this necklace looks like a gorgeous piece of stained glass. The blues and green are so vibrant. Definitely a statement piece!

Taylor Kumiko Hermes, class of 2012, “Letting Go: Anger”, 2012. Cross body brooch. Brass, handmade Japanese paper, fishing line.

taylorhermes3Taylor’s body brooch has so many layers to it. I love that it goes across the body (it has pin mechanisms at the top and bottom to hold it in place) in a completely unique and interesting way. The little pieces of paper are feather thin and go from light to dark as they travel down the body. There is so much movement in this — the pieces of paper are literally flying off of you. But the symbolism is what really gets me on this one. To think that this piece of jewelry could symbolize the act of letting go of anger — of taking all those little dark negative pieces that accumulated over time into anger and bursting them apart. It is powerful and artistic and just fascinating. How therapeutic it must be to wear this piece!

Which is your favorite? Would you love to try on that webbed expansion bracelet? Or perhaps the stained glass necklace against a little black dress? Maybe a little catharsis from wearing the body brooch? They’re all so cool. Until next time!

P.S. Although I mention Pratt a million times in this blog post, I was not paid or perked to write about this exhibition. I am simply a lover of gorgeous jewelry created by awesome designers!

 

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Field Trip: If I Had $1,400 to Spend at LOOT: MAD About Jewelry

Yesterday I made my way to the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) on Columbus Circle to check out day two of their five day LOOT: MAD About Jewelry exhibition and sale. This is LOOT’s 13th year, but my very first checking it out. The pop-up sale features the work of over 50 jewelry designers who create one-of-a-kind artistic pieces. These jewelry artists come from more than 20 different countries, so it is a unique opportunity to see jewelry you might not otherwise know about or have access to. LOOT is on the second floor of MAD next to the currently abridged Barbara Berger Fashion Jewelry exhibition. In case you missed my blog post about that fantastic exhibition you can check it out here.

One of the great things about LOOT is that the designers are right there to talk with while checking out their jewelry pieces. A great opportunity to hear more about their inspiration and techniques — plus they know great ways to style their jewelry! I wish I could say I had money to burn at this sale, but why don’t we make it fun and use play money? Here is what I would have purchased if I had a $1,400 budget. And yes, I even included real-life NY sales tax in this play money shopping spree!

Monopoly Money

PLAY MONEY TOTAL: $1,400 

#1: Meghan O’Rourke’s Pear-Shaped Oxidized Titanium Earrings for $245 (plus $21.68 in tax):

Meghan O'Rourke earrings at LOOT

Much of Meghan’s work on display involved a technique of oxidizing titanium, which gives this wonderful grey hue to the metal. It also gives it a bit of an eggshell finish, so the pieces have a fantastic understated quality. Her method of punching holes in the metal to create the patterns reminded me of the cut-out of a doily. The pair in the top right hand corner were my absolute favorite — the way the pattern looks like the facets of a gemstone. It was extremely hard to leave these earrings at the show instead of taking them home with me! Meghan also does beautiful work with an anodized aluminum method, which colors her pieces in a rainbow of hues. You can see more of these gorgeous pieces on her website.

PLAY MONEY REMAINING: $1,133.32

#2: Danielle Gori-Montanelli’s Grey Felt Key Chain Necklace for $145 (plus $12.83 in tax):

Danielle Gori-Montanelli Key Necklace LOOT

Danielle’s felt necklaces are so much fun! Now that it’s fall (although it was almost 80 degrees here in NYC yesterday, so it doesn’t quite feel like it yet) there’s nothing cozier than some wool. These necklaces made out of thick felt are extremely light and moveable. Danielle also uses bright colors to contrast some of the darker chain links. I fell in love with the center necklace, the light grey chain with the dark grey key. Couldn’t you imagine wearing this with jeans and a t-shirt, or with a fancy little black dress? She also makes fun felt stone collar necklaces, plus felt lego long necklaces, all available in her online shop.

PLAY MONEY REMAINING: $975.49

#3: Rachel Eardley’s Coin Wren Bird Ring for $156 (plus $13.80 in tax):

Rachel Eardley coin bird ring LOOT

Rachel uses coins and silver for her jewelry, and it makes for these charming and sweet pieces. Many of the coin cut-outs were of small animals — birds, rabbits, pigs, horses, owls, etc. Her display case felt like a magical fairy-tale forest world! This particular ring was my absolute favorite because of the two-tone metals and the open space inside the circle that lets your skin show through. Rachel was also an absolute pleasure to speak with. Definitely check out more of her work — she has necklaces, bracelets, brooches, earrings, cufflinks, etc. all in a similar style. I wish this bird ring could fly home to me!

PLAY MONEY REMAINING: $805.69

#4: Margherita Marchioni’s Rainbow Colored Pencil Pyramid Necklace for $480 (plus $42.48 in tax):

Image courtesy of Margherita Marchioni

Image courtesy of Margherita Marchioni

Let’s start with a little fact about me: I adore colored pencils. I love the range of hues and using them to blend the colors in an art piece. So a colored pencil necklace? Right up my alley! Margherita uses pencils as a tool to create amazing shapes like these pyramids. The center of the pencils (where the color is) are drilled and thin clear plastic string is looped through to connect the pieces. So this necklace was very dynamic and flexible. Yet another necklace that could be dressed up or down! And absolutely a conversation piece. Check out some of her other jewelry in her gallery — I also loved the twisting colored pencil necklace that looked like a DNA double helix!

PLAY MONEY REMAINING: $283.21

#5: Ashley Buchanan’s Powder Coated Grey Earrings for $144 (plus $12.74 in tax):

Ashley Buchanan earrings LOOTPowder coated jewelry has this wonderful soft finish and a modified sheen that I adore. These earrings, like Meghan’s earlier, remind me a bit of a doily because of the cut-outs. Although they may seem like they would be stiff, when I tried them on they actually have a good amount of dangling movement. They also look great when worn with the straight side toward the face — it frames the jaw and neck perfectly. Another very hard piece of jewelry to part with. I am also a (newly) big fan of her Faux Real line, which has a ring called Diamonds Are For Everyone that involves a button with the image of a diamond from a magazine placed in the center setting. It’s pretty fun, you can check it out here.

PLAY MONEY REMAINING: $126.47

#6: Alienina’s Sailing Mixed Cuff in Grey for $108 (plus $9.59 in tax):

Alienina bracelet LOOT

Image courtesy of Alienina

If you hadn’t noticed yet, I love the color grey. Love love love. This bracelet, created by jewelry artist Eliana Venier for her collection Alienina, is made from sailing rope and recycled jersey fabric. Woven together it creates a sturdy but stretchable jewelry piece. I fell into serious love with this bracelet because once you slide it on your wrist it hugs you is this perfectly cozy and comforting way. Who wouldn’t want to walk around feeling a permanent hug, especially when the weather gets chilly? A bracelet you could wear every day! Check out her other woven pieces in her online shop – a never ending wish list of great jewelry. And all hand-washable!

PLAY MONEY REMAINING: $8.88

Well, we have $8.88 left over. What would I do with it?

Diamond Bingo

Scratch-off lotto tickets! That way there’s a chance to win it all back — or win even more and shop all over again for more jewelry pieces!

Which was your favorite of the bunch? Or are there any pieces you saw on the designer’s websites that you adore? If you are in NYC anytime between now and Saturday you should definitely check it out, plus admission is only $5 to the museum during this sale. Also, they are having an all-day jewelry event on Saturday, October 5th to celebrate the last day of the sale. Lots of jewelry-related workshops and tours. Excited to go back next year!

P.S. Although I mention the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) a million times in this blog post, I was not paid or perked to write about this exhibition/sale. I am simply a lover of gorgeous jewelry!

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Field Trip: Fashion Jewelry – The Collection of Barbara Berger at MAD

After a rainy lunchtime meeting with a client in the Diamond District last week the clouds parted, the sun broke through, and I decided it was high time I took a walk to check out the Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger exhibit at the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD).

Fashion Jewelry Insta

Featuring over 450 jewelry pieces from Barbara Berger’s astounding 4,000+ piece personal collection, this exhibition curated by Harrice Simons Miller is the result of over 50 years of collecting. The daughter of a diamond merchant, Barbara purchased her first pair of Chanel earrings at a flea market as a teenager and never looked back. “I buy what I like and it’s usually love at first sight,” Barbara says in her book that showcases over 200 of the pieces from the exhibit.

Coco Chanel book quote Insta

Walking through the exhibit is like being inside of Barbara’s jewelry box. Adding to this feeling, MAD showcases the pieces not only in standing glass displays, but also in rows and rows of pull out drawers. Each time you open another drawer the surprise of what you might find is elating. It is a very intimate experience to see the jewelry pieces that have special meaning to Barbara. Along with the item descriptions there is also a handy audio tour that you can listen to on your mobile device while strolling the exhibit.

Gong necklace Insta

This 24 karat gold and brass piece from 1987 is dubbed the “gold cymbals necklace” in my mind, but is actually titled Gong (not that far off) by Robert Lee Morris. It was a gift from the artist to Barbara in 1995, and I just love the layered movement of the brass circles in the necklace. I could imagine this with a fantastic strapless tribal or floral print dress and sandals. Or a crisp white dress shirt and fitted black skirt. The possibilities are endless!

Butcher paper pink Insta

I am IN LOVE with this necklace by Swiss artist Verena Sieber-Fuchs. This untitled piece from 1988 may seem to be created from delicate feathers plucked from a magical pink bird, but it is in fact created from butcher paper and silver wire. How amazing is that? Each thin slice of paper gives a light, fluffy, and utterly feminine feeling. Couldn’t you imagine a ballerina wearing this to mimic the plume of her tutu? So ethereal!

Etro necklace Insta

This necklace made by Etro (an Italian company) in 1990 is created from velvet and metal, and for me it evokes the crisp and cool beginning of autumn. Maybe it’s the velvet, or the jewel-toned hues (especially the deep burgundy) that remind me of falling leaves and the start of sweaters and jeans. I also appreciate that this necklace is not perfectly symmetrical in its design. Just a fun and playful piece!

Chanel feather neck Insta

If the pink butcher paper “feather” necklace was my favorite piece of the exhibit, this metal feather necklace by Chanel might be my second favorite. I adore the asymmetrical design of the feathers on this, which I can just imagine laying exquisitely over the right shoulder of the wearer. It is simple but completely fabulous.

I could go on and on with photos of the jewelry at this exhibit, there were just so many interesting pieces. I really appreciate how wide-ranging Barbara’s taste is. She can have light and feminine pieces like some of those above, and then you turn the corner and you see this necklace by Daniel Von Weinberger:

Imprisoned in Fluo Insta

Titled “Imprisoned in Fluo”, this necklace is a conglomeration of plastic toys, from glow-in-the-dark frogs to a masked superhero caught in the footbed of a rubbery pink shoe. Even if it’s not your taste to wear for a night out on the town, it’s fun to look through it and see all the little pieces tangled within.

After delighting over all the interesting jewelry I made my way up to the sixth floor, which has both a learning center and a workroom for the current artist-in-residence. The learning center is a bit like walking into summer camp — several tables topped with all kinds of creative supplies. My favorite area was the jewelry making table, of course. Super inviting cups and bins full of beads, sequins, and unusual cast offs were available to string and wire wrap. After seeing all the fantastic costume jewelry from the exhibit my creativity was peaked and I was ready to dig in. I made this fun necklace, and it took everything in my power not to just stay there all day and create more:

Molly necklace Insta

After prying myself from the crafts table (seriously, make sure to hang out up there if you go to see the exhibit) I went to the room next door to see what the artist-in-residence was doing. That day it was David Mandel, a jewelry designer who has several pieces in the Fashion Jewelry exhibit. Having created jewelry for theater and live events for over twenty years, you may have seen his larger-than-life pieces in the 2012 Victoria’s Secret runway show:

Photo courtesy of MAD

Photo courtesy of MAD

David was wonderful to speak with, and I was especially fond of the piece he is currently working on in the artist’s room, a jewelry shirt called Urban Grind:

Jewelry Shirt Insta

 And here is the back (in somewhat different lighting):

Jewelry Shirt Back Insta

The vertical jewelry strips in this shirt are detachable, and with hooks along the neckline that means that this shirt is completely customizable. Mix and match sections of the shirt to create a different look each day. Isn’t that so innovative and fun? Also, note the plastic googly eyes within the design. When wearing a jewelry shirt it’s important not to take yourself too seriously!

As I said, there are a million more pieces from the exhibit that I would love to show you, but that would ruin the fun of seeing it yourself! The exhibition will run at MAD until January 20th, 2014, but some portions will close on September 22nd, so if you are in NYC make sure to check it out before then.

Have you already checked out the exhibit? What was one of your favorite pieces? Did you try and pick up one of the Barbara Berger books on display only to find it was glued to the table to prevent stealing? Yeah, I didn’t either 😉

P.S. Although I mention the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) a million times in this blog post, I was not paid or perked to write about this exhibition. I am simply a lover of gorgeous jewelry!

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